It may nowadays lack its former ‘buzz’, but this once trail-blazing modern British ‘goldfish bowl’, off Notting Hill Gate, bounced back this year – reports are still a bit mixed, but the “classic, well-prepared dishes” (especially fish) have often been “very enjoyable” of late.
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“At the tale end of a some Jamaican reminiscenses, the critic happens to return to Kensington Place just after a new chef has been installed (as, by a curious coincidence, did we). Like we did, he has a most satisfactory meal, but found the place not very full. “There is something majestic and lovely“, he notes, “about a big old restaurant from which the name-chasing hordes have moved on, cooking very good food for nobody in particular”.
Giles Coren (22nd January 2008)
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