“My favourite London Italian!” – still how many reporters feel about this famously “unglitzy” room, over a Bayswater pub, which has won renown for “simple” dishes, “brilliantly” executed, and wonderfully “warm” service too; in recent times, however, even some of its most dedicated fans have found it “slightly below usual standards”.
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"Do you think I should kill him now, or later?" the waitress asks. "I'm not so interested in when it happens," I tell her. "I'm more bothered about how quickly you do it." She smiles. "Don't worry. I'll kill him slowly. Slow is always better." "Was it Jacques Brel," I ask, "who said: 'A bullet: too slow; poison: too quick'?"
Robert Chalmers (13th December 2010)
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