Thierry Thomasin – owner and sommelier of this “buzzy” and “romantic” pub-conversion, near Lancaster Gate tube – is undoubtedly “the perfect host”; some reporters, though, do fear his “clever” wine list outshines the good but rather “overpriced” Gallic cuisine.
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Thierry Thomasin – formerly manager of Aubergine in Chelsea – has made quite a splash with Angelus. And in Bayswater too, an area it’s tempting to describe as ‘unlikely’, but which – wi...
Press Reviews (7)
Fay Maschler (6th May 2009)
The arrival of a new (English) chef, Martin Nisbet, provides a platform for a non-opening review of Thierry Tomasin’s Bayswater pub-conversion. “Angelus has become a neighbourhood restaurant in a way that might not have happened with more obvious restaurant locations”, she observes… and in a way she finds profoundly satisfactory.
Unusually, for the critic of a major newspaper, Giles kicks off by specifying the competing reviews with which, as it turns out, he does not agree, and he then recounts the details of the “relative shocker” of a meal he had at this much-hailed Bayswater newcomer.
Terry Durack (17th October 2007)
Despite finding the (celebrated) foie gras crème brûlée “wet and mushy”, Mr. Durack finds that “the chef can cook”, at this “classy” Bayswater newcomer. The wine list is “praiseworthy” too.
AA Gill (25th September 2007)
After a long dissertation on wine (of which he self-admittedly knows nothing) and French wine in particular, and then grouse, the critic finally gets to round to reviewing this Bayswater newcomer. It turns out the opening is part of a bigger movement – the “welcome return of bourgeois French food” – and the fare, it finally turns out, is “not bad”.
Marina O’Loughlin (19th September 2007)
Ms. O’Loughlin reivews “one of the capital's luxe bistros”, and concludes head chef Olivier Duret's Gallic fare is similar to her “idea of heaven”.
Jay Rayner (19th September 2007)
Mr. Rayner really enjoys his experience at Thierry Thomasin’s Bayswater newcomer, where the fare is “stellar” and the wine list is “packed with bargains and intrigue”.
Fay Maschler (4th September 2007)
This Gallic newcomer “is not a gastro-pub but a gastronomic one”; the flavour of head chef Olivier Duret's food is “delicate” and “totally satisfactory”.