“Yes, that really is Joan Collins at the end of the aisle!” – Corbin & King’s “civilised and timeless” metropolitan linchpin, by the Ritz, is peerless in its “sheer buzz” at any time of day; “London’s best breakfast” is a particular highlight – otherwise, the brasserie fare is “good but unimaginative”.
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How to follow such an act? The answer turned out to The Wolseley. Occupying a vast Edwardian building near the Ritz – built as a showroom for Wolseley Motors, but for most of the last century a gr...