Phil Howard creates some “serious, world-class fine dining” (if “a bit rich” for some tastes), at this “effortlessly classy” Mayfair dining room; with its “mammoth” wine list, it’s one of London’s surest bets for client-entertaining”… so the feel is inevitably rather “corporate”.
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Phil Howard is “one of the three or four best working in the country”, says the critic, in a thoroughly positive review of a Mayfair restaurant that “was always good, but [has] got better”. Howard is, as Gill sagely observes, “one of the very few top-rated chefs who actually still cooks when there isn’t someone shouting, ‘Quiet studio, action!’”. How true.