“The Landau is reborn”, thanks to the Roux take-over of this “palatial” and “truly lovely” dining room – the cuisine is “impeccably executed” and service “seamless and unobtrusive”; the set lunch, in particular, is “excellent value”.
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The English like to think they’ve got the whole restaurant thing sussed nowadays. But we’re still waiting for the English chef who can demonstrate that he can build an upmarket restaurant empir...
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Press Reviews (6)
Fay Maschler (20th January 2011)
Albert Roux and his son Michel Jr had not worked together for 19 years. Then in November last year one of the founders - together with the current owner of Le Gavroche, having joined forces with The Langham hotel - launched Roux at The Landau with Gavroche-trained chef Chris King in the kitchen.
Richard Vines (2nd April 2008)
2/5 stars
The menu is “confusing” and service can be “slow”, but it It seems to be mainly the lack of customers which depresses the critic’s overall assessment of this ambitious West End hotel dining room. The room manifests “all the gorgeous luxury you may expect from [leading designer] David Collins”, and chef Andrew Turner’s food is “exquisite”.
Joe Joseph (17th March 2008)
The critic, standing in for Giles Coren, is less than thrilled to have his credit card demanded when booking dinner for two at this hotel dining room near Oxford Circus, especially as “when we arrived 20 minutes later, maybe 4 of the 30 or so tables were occupied”. He immediately endures the “still or sparkling” trial, and is not especially thrilled to be told that the waiter has "prepared… a selection of bread” for him, and that the salt comes form the Himalayas. (“Doesn’t European salt just drive you so mad?”) Unsuprisingly, he does not seem convinced that the meal which follows is entirely up to its pretensions.
Marina O’Loughlin (31st January 2008)
3/5 stars
“The Landau is unashamedly fine dining… and [Andrew] Turner is a stranger to simplicity. But the restaurant is designed to appeal to our inner sybarite and sometimes you just have to go with the show”. Ms O’M neatly summarises her own review of this ambitious tasting-style outfit at the Langham Hotel.
Guy Dimond (7th January 2008)
5/6 stars
An almost allegorical review, based on the premise that David Thompson’s new restaurant at the Langham hotel “could pass as a set from ‘The Golden Compass’”. Let’s just say, in a good way.
David Sexton (29th November 2007)
2/5 stars
He may only be standing in for the divine Mrs M, but David Sexton seems – under the ever-changing Evening Standard régime – to be empowered to award stars, and he gives only two of ’em to Andrew Turner‘s new grazing restaurant at the Langham hotel. “What ‘grazing’ is about”, he concludes, “is trying to cram in as many prestige ingredients and as much ambitious cooking as physically possible into a single meal that can be consumed without keeling over”. “The Landau certainly delivers. But is this in any way a good taste aspiration?”