|Last Orders||9.45 pm|
"Attention to detail is what makes this place so special. The crispy pig's trotter that looks like a toasted cardboard box yet tastes perfectly of beautifully poached and crisped pork; duck breast very prettily presented and boiled potatoes then crisply roasted and sliced into a mille feuille effect. Great."
"Trinity is always superb. The food is heavenly and the wine list is surprising and creative. Byatt's dishes always bring a smile to our faces, making it our go-to choice for mini celebrations. The staff are always knowledgeable and friendly. It is our favourite little gem in Clapham and it is impossible not to feel happy when dining there."
"Some good cooking here, though a few pretentious touches that don't add much. Good service and a nice brisk atmosphere."
"Very good execution of the modern English food, and superb service as always. It is, however, in need of refurbishment and starting to look a little tatty."
"Beautifully presented food from a mouth watering menu. Smart but intimate. Great for the area to have this."
Adam Byatt is a foodie-world favourite. He first hit the headlines - in a modest way - back in 2002, when his Clapham restaurant Thyme was at the cutting edge of the 'tasting plate' revolution. Then - flushed with success - he moved Thyme to Covent Garden. It failed, however, and he subsequently re-launched on the same site as 'Origin'. Hidden-away on the first floor of a multimedia centre, Origin has still always had difficulty attracting the following its interesting cuisine deserves.
This new outlet takes Mr Byatt back to his 'roots', near Clapham Common (just a couple of hundred yards from the original Thyme). The obvious problem is that Clapham has never proved itself a 'natural' fine-dining destination, and you have to have real innovation or quality on your side to succeed.
Well, on our visit, there was no particular innovation, and nothing about this place was quite good enough. For a start, the setting is below the aspiration level: at £50 a head, you do not want to hear, as we could, a deep-fat fryer bubbling away during your lunch. (Nor to smell it, but that was probably just a ventilation teething problem.) But, in the last analysis, it was the food which let the place down. If customers go to the trouble of seeking out a place like this, they need to be rewarded with intense flavours. We weren't, with none of the half-dozen dishes we sampled really impressed. Even bread, hot from the oven, was a non-event.
Perhaps it was just early days. But we can't help thinking that a visit to Origin, with its handier West End location, would still be a better bet.
- Nearby Offers
- Similar Restaurants