Marlon Abela’s slick new bistro, on the former Knightsbridge site of Oratory (RIP), seduces some reporters with its “crowd-pleasing” Gallic fare – sceptics, however, find its whole style “pretentious”, and say prices are “outrageous” too.
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"This house believes French cuisine is a spent force" was the topic of a debate at the London Restaurant Festival. Despite the best efforts of Rosie Boycott and Janet Street-Porter arguing the case, they were pummelled by Jonathan Meades and A A Gill in verbal sparring that devolved into a somewhat jingoistic Britain v France match.
Fay Maschler (13th December 2010)
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