“Odd” decor and “eccentric” service are not the only peculiarities which have made Michel Roux’s “sepulchral” Westminster outpost a “strange” débutante – reports on the cuisine range the whole way from “best meal for many years” to “extremely disappointing”.
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The critical world, in particular, is becoming less tolerant of the ‘same old formulae’ these days. That is not good news for openings such as this recent addition to the empire of the Roux fam...
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Press Reviews (1)
Fay Maschler (27th May 2010)
3/5 stars
A mixed review of the latest Roux establishment, “where the hushed atmosphere does nothing to suggest that anyone other than suits involved in advantageous property dealings will be found in any of the rooms.” While the critic enjoys “lovely” salmon and roast lamb, she finds wild sea trout to be “woefully overcooked”, desserts are disappointing, and an unannounced canapé is “the sort of thing you bite into and, were you not in a Grade II-listed building with an expensive carpet, would convey from mouth to hand to napkin pretty swiftly.” “His cooking is slightly doggedly imaginative and for the most part correct but it would be hard for anyone to shine in such listless, prudent surroundings.”