January 2016: William Halsall joins Le Caprice as head chef. He was most recently senior sous chef at 34.
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“The magic never fades” at this “island of casual sophistication and understatement” near the Ritz – “still wonderfully fashionable after all these years”, and charmingly presided over by “the amazing Mr Jesus Adorno”. That said, while the cooking has always been “nursery” style, it has become more “unexciting” during the tenure of current owner, Richard Caring.
“Sooooo smooth, soooo suave” – this “effortless” ’80s brasserie tucked away behind the Ritz has always “eschewed culinary heights”, and even if its “classy comfort food” is a tad less excellent under Richard Caring’s ownership it’s “the front of house staff and overall buzz which make it so special”.
“Like Ol’ Man River, just keeps rolling along!” – this “understated” ’80s brasserie, behind The Ritz, “always make you feel like a million dollars”; its “robust” comfort food “won’t let you down”, but it’s not as dazzling as it once was – the “people-watching” is the more reliable sparkler.
“Still with its old pizzazz and magic” – Richard Caring’s ’80s-minimalist “super-staple”, behind the Ritz, “continues to deliver at a very high level”; old-timers, though, can’t quite avoid the feeling that “standards have fallen” since yesteryear.
20 Arlington St, London, SW1A 1RJ
Mon-Fri Noon - 11:30, Sat, 11:30am - 11:30pm, Sun 11:30 - 11pm
Last orders: 11.30 pm Mon-Sat, Sun 10.30 pm