For a “fun” meal that’s “quick and relatively cheap”, these “slick” dim sum (and cocktail) specialists have many fans; critics, though, feel the menu “reads better than it tastes” – “what once seemed an exciting new experience now just feels rather like a bland old chain”.
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It turns out that the critic is a bit of an expert on dumplings, “having made them in the kitchens of the Mandarin Oriental in Hong Kong [and] eaten them in the best places in HK, KL, NY, L and even P”. He brings the full weight of this knowledge to the branch of the dim sum chain which has had the temerity to take over the Hampstead site of ZeNW3, a Chinese restaurant which, as he explains at inordinate length, meant a lot to him.
Giles Coren (16th June 2008)
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