A heart-of-the-City rendezvous for expense-accounters (with a more “power lunch”-style restaurant attached); its cooking “has improved of late”, but it is still “not exceptional”, and the banking hall setting can – at peak times – seem “too much like a railway terminus” for some tastes.
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The critic goes to a grand and famous place in the heart of the City (where the restaurant proper has a Michelin star) looking for “comfort food, as cheap as we could find it, just a plateful and a glass”. You might think he was looking in a rather odd place? Well, so it turns out: “[o]rdering as modestly as possible in marble halls remains one way of crunch-eating — but maybe it’s a bit pointless when you can eat just as well, more casually, in many a good gastropub?”.
David Sexton (17th October 2008)
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