Views on this ex-Gavroche chef’s grand and quite ‘corporate’ restaurant remain rather mixed; its “sophisticated” cuisine generally, pleases though – go pre-theatre, and it can even be it can even be relatively “affordable”.
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Despite initial reservations about the title of the restaurant, Mr Norman finds “impressive” and “beautifully presented” Gallic fare at this city-centre restaurant, departing from his lunch with a “smug glow of contentment”.
Matthew Norman (13th November 2007)
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