It certainly offers “no frills”, but this “excellent refuelling spot”, right by Leicester Square tube, is worth seeking out for its “top falafels”, “great salt beef sarnies” and “super prices”; fans go further – “it’s not at all as grotty as you suggest”, they claim, and “its reputation for surly service is undeserved!”
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“Think again, Robert Cecil, seventh Marquess of Salisbury… and reprieve Gaby’s deli”. That’s the plea from the Telegraph’s man who -- citing a missive in the Tuesday letter’s page from a host of the great and the good to the same effect -- says that “if ever a restaurant was worth redeeming in an act of patrician largesse, it is this one”. With its “lovably eclectic range of punters” and “cheap, delicious and nutritious” kosher fare, here is “is our best answer to the great New York delis such as the Carnegie” (with the salt beef on rye the meal’s stand out dish). We need places like this: “a beacon of individualism, illuminated by a tight-knit family working almost around the clock, in an ever-more homogenised age”.
Matthew Norman (28th January 2012)
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