|Last Orders||10 pm|
"Had the tasting menu with some business colleagues - Service attentive, Sommelier's knowledge of the wines first rate with an easy way to put across the information and food that complimented the wine as much as the wine complimented the food. Overall a very enjoyable experience"
"Hey, this place is first rate again. More than a neighborhood gem, worthy of a visit from afar. Refined environment."
"This remains one of the better restaurants in Kensington. Nice décor, not overly formal as some peers, excellent attentive service without it being intrusive and very good food. My only minor criticism is that there was no a la carte option (on the Saturday at least) and being forced to dine on a 7 course tasting menu is not something I would want all the time and certainly not when I have booked a late table."
Pétrus's ex-chef has helped tranform this once-sleepy townhouse in a Kensington back street into one of the most notable London openings (well, re-openings) of recent times; efficient service and the comfortable ambience only enhance the experience.
A former Duke of Devonshire once observed that he was the only person he knew who woke up every morning with nothing at all to complain about, save possibly the fact that he had nothing in the world to complain about. Being able to find nothing at all wrong with D&D group's relaunch of this Kensington back street townhouse, we feel obliged, albeit in a different context, to echo his grace's sentiments.
With Tristan Welch as chef - until recently he was head chef at Pétrus, voted best restaurant overall in our most recent survey - it was never likely that this was going to be 'just another opening', and we thought the food was consistently very good to exceptional, and often beautifully presented. (A pre-dessert of little custards, for example, came wittily but not over-cutely presented in a boiled egg stand, and delicious they were too.)
Even the bargain lunchtime menu offers 'different' - but not forced or silly - dishes that really work. If one could make any sort of negative observation - it could not be really called a criticism - it is that some of the dishes, such as a hearty risotto starter, are surprisingly substantial.
Staff are attentive too, and - like the smartly contemporary interior - manage to avoid giving the impression of trying too hard. All in all, therefore, this discreetly located spot - at the end of a cute row of multi-million pound houses - is now, for our money, one of the better all-round, all-purpose restaurants in town.
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