Sally Clarke’s once-“pioneering” California-inspired veteran, near Notting Hill Gate, remains for most reporters a “fantastic” spot, with “elegant” decor and “refined” cuisine; a disgruntled minority, though, fear it’s becoming “tired”, and “trading on its reputation”.
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BYO - yes, Children's facilities - high or special chairs, Private rooms (capacities) - 40-50, Notable wine list - yes, Last orders - 10 pm, Closed - closed Sun D
The critic decides to revisit the Kensington stalwart, and is seated in the “uncompromising basement”. The experience is “not that pleasant or welcoming”, and he finds the food “prim” – it “just doesn’t particularly care if you like it or not” – and “righteously dull”.
Toby Young (17th August 2009)
18/20
The critic proclaims the eponymous restaurant of the “culinary Queen of Kensington” (Sally Clarke) as “one of the finest [...] in London”. After 23 years, it still produces “straightforward, modern British food”, and, “posh without being ostentatious”, “belongs to the Kensington of JM Barrie rather than American investment bankers”. He has “never had a bad meal here”, and on this visit “everything is light and summery, bursting with fresh, herby flavours”, but, he warns it “isn’t cheap”.
AA Gill (5th October 2009)
Toby Young (17th August 2009)
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