“Almost impossible to criticise!”; this “plush” Chiswick all-rounder rivals its sibling Chez Bruce with its “flawless” cuisine, and “consummately professional” staff – not least an “outstanding” sommelier who presides over a “spectacular and formidable” list; OK, there’s one gripe – it’s a little “tightly-packed”.
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n “neat suburban” street Chiswick – where “everybody looks like an estate agent or a young mother hoping for better things” – Mr Winner happens upon this “surprisingly pleasant” restaurant. He starts with an “absolutely marvellous” boudin blanc, which was “just as well because my next two courses were, in order of consumption, awful and not very good”. Things picked up at pudding stage, though.