“Why go into town when this is on my doorstep?”; this sibling to Chez Bruce remains “the jewel in Chiswick’s crown”, twinning “faultless” cuisine with an “eclectic and fascinating” wine list; it’s a “chic” but “unstuffy” place too (if a little on the “squashed” side).
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n “neat suburban” street Chiswick – where “everybody looks like an estate agent or a young mother hoping for better things” – Mr Winner happens upon this “surprisingly pleasant” restaurant. He starts with an “absolutely marvellous” boudin blanc, which was “just as well because my next two courses were, in order of consumption, awful and not very good”. Things picked up at pudding stage, though.
Michael Winner (25th June 2007)
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