All the more notable “in the Paddington restaurant desert”, a “leading media club” (dining room open to all) whose menu “showcases the best of British” (much of it from the owner’s farm), accompanied by a “delightful” wine list ; war-reporting is the house speciality – “the photos on the wall certainly make an impression”.
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Brunch - yes, Children's facilities - high or special chairs, Private rooms (capacities) - 50, Notable wine list - yes, Last orders - 11 pm, Closed - closed Sun D
Giles Coren (31st July 2007)
Meat/fish: 7/10 points; Cooking: 7/10 points; Space: 10/10 points; Water: didn't drink any
Giles takes up much of his review talking about wine in restaurants, but he likes the food at this Bayswater club for war reporters (“vainglorious bores”). When it comes to the food, some “good, honest, proper pig faggots” set the tone of the review. The chef turns out to be “a big, old-fashioned English chef, like the blacksmith out of England, Their England. Forearms like hams”. “But he cares in a very modern way about his food, stickles for his chain of provenance and gets his veg from the much-heralded Secrett's farm without making a big song and dance about it.” “Really good, plain, English cooking of top-notch ingredients” – with some decent wines – helps make the Frontline “a staggering find”.
Giles Coren (31st July 2007)
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