Henry Togna’s low-key Mayfair haunt offers an “unusual and enjoyable take on Italian cuisine” which wins over most reporters, even if “it can work out expensive”; hidden-away upstairs, there’s a locals’ secret bar.
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Harden‘s reviews are sometimes criticised for not talking enough about the food. We're never quite sure why. Sir Terence Conran, who's made a lot of money feeding people, puts food somewhere arou...