“Stunning” Chinese food – “off the scale for simplicity and subtlety” – inspires rave reviews for this swanky Mayfair joint; prices, however, are equally mind-numbing, and the “glamorous” interior can seem “somewhat lacking on the atmosphere front”.
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Business - yes, Children's facilities - high or special chairs, Private rooms (capacities) - 6,12, Notable wine list - yes, Last orders - 10.45 pm, Sun 10.15 pm
The critic has a “fine and dandy” meal at a “greige” Mayfair Chinese. Service is “speedy and informed”, food is “perfectly constructed” – and the puddings “remarkable and distinguished” – and he concludes he would come back, if it were not for the bill (£216.56 for two). This is one of those reviews where it’s helpful to know that Mr Gill is too grand to award the stars next to his column: is four stars really the right award for a restuarant that’s too expensive to want to go back to?
Fay Maschler (28th January 2009)
2/5 stars
Well, Michelin has finally won Mrs M’s “grudging respect”. “To go on and on blithely ignoring the way the world is going, to, as it were, not notice or acknowledge what customers want from restaurants, and to reward the branded links in the chains owned by big-cheese French chefs because, well, because they are big-cheese French chefs: respect!”
Michael Winner (4th June 2007)
The critic returns to a Mayfair Chinese he used to know and like. “The meal was a disaster from start to finish.”
AA Gill (3rd September 2009)
Fay Maschler (28th January 2009)
Michael Winner (4th June 2007)
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