“Perched on the top of Battersea Rise... what used to be Broome & Delancey was recently refurbished and rebadged and turned into The Establishment – which is a good thing.” The critic tells us it now has a “cosily lit restaurant bedecked with snug booths and overlooked by an open-plan kitchen”. It serves “best of Britain” food, and earns “[b]ig ticks for attentive service”.