Owned by the D&D (ex-Conran) group, this cavernous ’90s basement, in St James’s, offers “boring, boring, boring” brasserie fare at prices that too often seem “a complete rip-off”; it doesn’t help that some reporters don’t feel so much fed as “processed”.
Keep your own review of Quaglino’s using our diary service.
The menu at Quags, proclaims Ms M, is a “long, not very galvanising list of predictable hits which could have been assembled by a committee”. (There is, it turns out, also a more interesting menu. It has to be ordered in advance, though how is not clear as it's not even advertised on the restaurant’s website!) Some dishes may have been “serviceable”, but the whole package leaves the veteran critic very underwhelmed indeed.
Fay Maschler (21st May 2008)
Follow hardensbites
Become a Harden's fan
