Perhaps because locals feel this “huge” D&D Group restaurant, in a St James’s basement, is “past the sell-by date” or “for tourists”, it generates strikingly few survey reports; some meals of late, however – if still “predictable” – have been “pleasantly surprising”.
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The menu at Quags, proclaims Ms M, is a “long, not very galvanising list of predictable hits which could have been assembled by a committee”. (There is, it turns out, also a more interesting menu. It has to be ordered in advance, though how is not clear as it's not even advertised on the restaurant’s website!) Some dishes may have been “serviceable”, but the whole package leaves the veteran critic very underwhelmed indeed.
Fay Maschler (21st May 2008)
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