Presided over by the executive chef of the usually good (but always pricey) Hakkasan group, a business-friendly City-fringe restaurant offering prettified, notionally Cantonese dishes – some of very high quality – in a Western ‘dégustation’ format.
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We can’t say we went to HKK with the highest hopes. It’s owned by the Hakkasan people, whose most recent London venture, Chrysan, struck us as a disaster, and an expensive one too. To depress e...