“Now he’s moved to Clerkenwell, it’s much easier to sample Morgan Meunier’s superb cuisine” – “unashamedly French, but often with an outstanding twist”; service is “kind and welcoming” too… but did the new premises’ décor really have to be so dismally “uninspired”?
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Morgan Meunier is one of the best Gallic chefs in London. Year after year, our survey has shown his cooking to be better than many much flashier places in the West End and Chelsea. Obscurely locate...
Press Reviews (1)
Amol Rajan (11th March 2012)
Amol worries that he will sound “ungrateful” with this latest review. Part of the problem is his visit the previous week to the “exceptionally good” Dabbous. This puts him “in the curious position of recommending this place but also saying that, for this price, there's markedly better elsewhere”. It doesn’t help that the ground floor decor is “smart but stale” – even “a little forbidding”. So while “the chef is a rare talent, the menu is mostly well-crafted and affordable to City types, and the location should guarantee regular, well-heeled visitors... maybe it will take a bold, lunchtime menu, or a radical discount on the tasting menus, to... generate the sort of buzz that a new Morgan M deserves.”