“Opulent”, “theatrical”, “fun” – the “dark” but “beautiful” dining room of this country house on the fringe of the city “sets a tone few other restaurants can match”; for most reporters, it lives up to the “great gastronomic experience” which it offers, but critics say it’s too “uneven”.
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The critic really doesn’t enjoy his trip to this would-be trendy country house hotel restaurant, just outside Edinburgh, which “tries so hard to be really, really absurd that it ends up looking plain daft”. The review is essentially a witty litany of disasters.
Mark Palmer (22nd May 2007)
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