Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ roamings, from the week ending 23 June 2019. Darby’s, London SW11 Grace Dent for The Guardian was the first critic to beat a path to Battersea to sample “Robin and Sarah Gill’s new project” near the peculiarly placed new American embassy at Vauxhall (“a gargantuan, purpose-built, space-age fortress… […]

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Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ musings, from the week ending 16 June 2019.  Hjem, Northumberland Marina O’Loughlin for The Sunday Times relies on her “spidey sense” to truffle out fabulous new restaurants to tell us about, and this time that “tingling in the fingertip” was spot on. And so it was off to […]

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Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics from the week ending 2 June 2019. The Sea, The Sea, London SW3 Marina O’Loughlin for The Sunday Times has “stumbled across the living definition of the word “precious”: a seafood restaurant, a fishmonger and a champagne bar in — where else? — Chelsea”. From the people behind […]

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Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ musings, from the week ending 12 May 2019.  Scully, London SW1 Jay Rayner for The Observer was back in London this week after reviewing several remarkably low-priced restaurants across the UK. Scully is in direct contrast to those places – “the only way you can get out of […]

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Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ musings, from the week ending 28 April 2019.  Pasta Ripiena, Bristol Jay Rayner for The Observer isn’t afraid to say it: “the best things to eat are rarely the prettiest”. He was in Bristol, eating plates of pasta that look like “paintings by one-year-olds that proud parents stick […]

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Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ musings, from the week ending 21 April 2019. Happy Easter! Xier, London W1 Grace Dent for The Guardian is always “questioning the entire point of modern haute cuisine” – especially lengthy tasting menus “often done badly: too pompous, too many petals, too few carbs, not a lot of […]

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Fishmarket, Edinburgh When in Edinburgh Jay Rayner for The Observer always heads to Ondine, and its “pitch-perfect seafood”; you can imagine how delighted he was to discover a sibling restaurant, “a collaboration between Ondine chef Roy Brett and his long-time suppliers Welch Fishmongers,” on the docks at Newhaven. At Fishmarket there’s a “classic metal takeaway counter” […]

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