Port Isaac Restaurant Guide

“Certainly the best restaurant in the region, perhaps the country!” Nathan Outlaw’s acclaimed flagship sits on a clifftop in a picturesque north Cornish village (home to TV’s Doc Martin) and while “the exterior of the building is underwhelming”, “the room itself is lovely, with perfectly positioned tables”… and “my god the view out of the windows is breathtaking”. On the menu – “a procession of the most delicious fish and seafood imaginable”: “supremely clean and pure in their premise and construction, with flavours that either hit you round the chops or melt down your throat in nuanced waves”. Service is “top class” – “warm, personal and professional, and with very appropriate wine suggestions”. A quibble? Many reports note that a trip here is “so expensive”, “even more so with the wine flight”. But even so, the investment almost invariably “feels like money well spent”: “was it worth the 625-mile round trip? – unquestionably YES”. Top Tip – “use an app to book local parking if you are coming in season, as Port Isaac is tiny and parking is extremely limited”.

“Fabulous, small plates of fishiness” – “each mouthful a truly memorable experience” – help inspire nothing but praise for Nathan Outlaw’s “tiny and atmospheric” spin-off venture, which has a “fantastic location”, “set on the quayside” of this Cornish fishing village and “doing full justice to the locally caught produce”. Compared with his posh gaff, dishes are “simpler, but just as fine in their own way”, and even fans of both establishments may feel that “although it’s not as pricey or fancy as his main place in town, this is actually better value and more enjoyable”.

Some “outstanding” meals are reported at this newly refurbished hotel: formerly Bay Hotel (aka Wenn House in TV’s Doc Martin) and under the same ownership as the nearby Port Gaverne Hotel and Pilchards Café. There’s not yet enough feedback yet to back up those who claim it’s “on a par with Nathan Outlaw opposite”, but suffice to say that the comparison’s not a preposterous one with unanimously high ratings awarded to Great British Menu chef, Andrew Sheridan’s cuisine – either simpler items from the à la carte, or fancier five-course and seven-course tasting options.

“Nathan Outlaw fully booked? Console yourself with the finest crab sandwich ever”, from Calum & Tracey Greenhalgh’s fishmonger and café. You won’t find fresher seafood – Calum sets out in his boat the Mary D every day to catch crab and lobster using pots, and pollack, mackerel and bass by handline.