Dolgellau Restaurant Guide

“Was it expensive, yes. Was it challenging, yes. Was it worth it, YES!” Gareth Ward’s famous matt-black painted mansion in the mists of mid-Wales isn’t one of the nation’s most expensive culinary pilgrimages for nothing, and fans of its maximalist style – complete with loud music and no end of restaurant ‘theatre’ – say that even if its 20-30 course menus are “a bit too protein-centric” (to be fair, the website does say they claim to be ‘protein-obsessed’) that “you can’t fault the cooking or the passion” that drives “an incredible all-round experience” hailed by some as “the best in the UK”. It still gets the thumbs up from a majority of reporters, but – as its prices have ballooned over its 10 years in operation – doubts have crept in and there’s a significant minority for whom it risks becoming “pretentious and overpriced”. (“It used to be exceptional, but IMHO has now jumped the shark with loud music, arrogant service, and stratospheric prices detracting greatly from its outstanding and interesting cooking…”; “It used to be a favourite of ours but is now more like a boot camp. Arrive when told, dine when told, leave when told… and all at a cost far greater than many Michelin star restaurants in Mayfair!”)

Fully open in May 2023, as our annual diners’ poll concluded, this wine bar / restaurant – a "little sister to Ynyshir", named after Gareth Ward’s mother – offers a more affordable destination in this un-touristy Welsh market town, but offers many of the same ingredients as its famous elder sibling; and uses similar preparation techniques. Head chef Corrin Harrison cooks 10-course meals for just eight diners at £100 per head. The wine-bar (also selling craft beers) is walk-in only and drinks-led for the time being, but there are also plans to open a pizzeria, using a pizza oven bought from fellow-chef Peter Sanchez-Iglesias following the closure of his Pi Shop in Bristol.