St James's, Steaks & Grills Restaurant Guide

“Still one of the steak stalwarts of London…”; “still our go-to place for a relaxed night out…”; “still the place for a discreet business meeting in the City…”. Few brands inspire as much long-term adulation as Huw Gott and Will Beckett’s steakhouse chain, which has ridden the zeitgeist since its founding in 2006; and which is now (with the help of Graphite Capital, who own most of it nowadays) to be found in NYC and Dublin, as well as Manchester, Edinburgh and Liverpool. A “terrific” cocktail in the bar, precedes “awesome steaks with fantastic side dishes, all in a cool setting”. At least, that’s long been the accepted wisdom anyway, although there’s a widespread feeling that quality “has dropped off a bit in recent years”. In this year’s annual diners’ poll, ratings improved in some respects and declined in others, with historical concerns over stratospheric prices supplanted by niggles that maybe the formula is just “starting to look a tad tired” and that service – though often “excellent” – can also sometimes seem increasingly “impersonal” (“you are just a number!”). The majority verdict for the time being, though? Still “always hits the spot”.

“Steak, as many hot chips as you can handle, good claret... and that’s about it really” – sums up the appeal of this “traditional” St James’s steakhouse that occupies the site where Wall’s became famous for their sausages. “Does exactly what it says on the tin”, although it’s seen as “rather overpriced” – “you’re paying for the name and the location”.

This “authentic Italian vermuteria” (they make their own vermouths) in the heart of Soho was founded 12 years ago by three brothers from northern Italy, and offers enjoyable cooking from their homeland, including “a great choice of pasta” and “the crispiest pizza ever – delicious!”

“One of the best bangs for your buck in town” – this “well-priced” steak chain has a “sensible formula” and has “managed to keep standards up despite constant expansion” (its latest, 11th London site, opened in March 2023 in Kensington). “Surroundings are basic” and “their menu is very simplistic: you choose a cut of meat, sauce and sides – the cuts are cooked to perfection”, “chips are hot, the service is punctual” and “free ice cream at the end ensures happy faces when people leave”.

2021 Review: “Decent burgers and reliable steaks” are highlights of the menu at this pair of “family- and group-friendly” steakhouses in the Fulham Road and Soho – useful ports of call before a match at Stamford Bridge or a night out in the West End. Overall, the level culinary performance is rated somewhere between “solid” and “pretty average”.

“Absolutely delicious grilled meats with equally tasty accompaniments, all in a buzzy and fun setting” inspire many loyalists for Gordon Ker’s “go-to” chain, which in May 2023 added a fifth branch in Canary Wharf’s North Dock. “Hawksmoor every week could be financially ruinous, but this never disappoints, be it lunch or dinner, for half the money”. Top Tips – “Butchers Block Monday prices, and regular £10 corkage. Get in!” Also the “all-in” meat-fest of lamb and pork chops, steak and bacon: “it uses cheaper cuts and preparation is basic, but juices drip over the plate, and the peppercorn sauce is delicious!”

Fans do still hail the “fabulous meat” at Roberto Costa’s quirky Italian steakhouse group, but it has lost some of its red-blooded allure in recent years. “The restaurants look appealing and the menu looks promising”, but lower ratings bolster those who feel “the quality has dropped with expansion”, as it has grown to six venues across London (and a sister concept, Fish Game, opened in Canary Wharf in mid-2023); and at its worst, it can deliver “distinctly average steaks” at “steep prices”.

“Yes, it is expensive (if not by Mayfair standards) but it is a meat-lover’s nirvana in a great setting” – that’s long been the accepted view on this quirky, grill room (est. 1952) behind a Young’s pub, tucked away in a scenic central mews. “Old fashioned pies, mixed grills and excellent steaks” are washed down with an “impressive, if over-priced, wine list” and served in a quaint, period setting, whose “overcrowded tables are part of the experience”. In the last couple of years, though (even prior to the departure last year of well-known manager Oisín Rogers), ratings have been on the slide. Some “shockingly bad” cooking has been reported, alongside service that’s “so indifferent”; and the current impression is that they are relying ever more heavily on their “captive market” of local business-lunchers.

“Steak, steak, and steak are all brilliant” at Misha Zelman’s NYC-style grill-houses also praised for their “great wine pairings” and “knowledgeable staff”. With branches in Mayfair, the City and Canary Wharf, they are a particular business favourite, and had the edge on their arch-rival Hawksmoor in survey results this year. Meat is sourced from Scotland, the US, Australia and Japan, dry-aged on site and cooked over charcoal.

“A go-to place for top USDA steaks” – this unusual space, hewn out of the old circle of the former Hippodrome Theatre, is worth a trip, with food that’s much better than you might expect. It’s great value too (perhaps as a loss leader to get you into the casino?), making it ideal as a pre-theatre option; and on Monday you can BYO wine. NB. Under 25s must have ID.

2021 Review: “A nice, laid-back American buzz” has helped win a loyal following over the years for this small chain of Kansas City-style diners: one of the first in London to bring BBQ indoors. “It’s a fun place” (in the right mood) and the food is “decent” and in man-sized portions, but “not particularly special”.

Limited but promising feedback so far on this August 2022, Mayfair newcomer – the first UK outpost of an Aussie-based chain – which aims to deliver ‘what it says on the tin’, with USDA steaks and Wagyu MB5 from Australian farms, as well as Prussian Black cuts from Finland. Early reports say “if steak is your thing then you will not do much better”, and speak of “very friendly staff” and an “enjoyable” overall experience.