Southbank, Steaks & Grills Restaurant Guide

Despite a fine NYC pedigree; a selection of top-quality imported USDA steaks; and a ‘prestige’ location, at the foot of the Adelphi (just off the Strand), this US steakhouse has never made waves in the capital. When it does, it’s often for the wrong reasons, with too many complaints either that it’s “overpriced” or “very disappointing”.

This stunning Covent Garden mansion (once a high-class brothel) is named for the son of one of Thatcher’s cabinet ministers, who launched it in its current guise as a grand American restaurant; and for about a decade it was the height of fashion. It retains a “great atmosphere” – and also, something of a following for business, brunch and its martini bar. But, given its location and dramatic interior, it attracts remarkably little feedback these days.

“One of the best bangs for your buck in town” – this “well-priced” steak chain has a “sensible formula” and has “managed to keep standards up despite constant expansion” (its latest, 11th London site, opened in March 2023 in Kensington). “Surroundings are basic” and “their menu is very simplistic: you choose a cut of meat, sauce and sides – the cuts are cooked to perfection”, “chips are hot, the service is punctual” and “free ice cream at the end ensures happy faces when people leave”.

“Absolutely delicious grilled meats with equally tasty accompaniments, all in a buzzy and fun setting” inspire many loyalists for Gordon Ker’s “go-to” chain, which in May 2023 added a fifth branch in Canary Wharf’s North Dock. “Hawksmoor every week could be financially ruinous, but this never disappoints, be it lunch or dinner, for half the money”. Top Tips – “Butchers Block Monday prices, and regular £10 corkage. Get in!” Also the “all-in” meat-fest of lamb and pork chops, steak and bacon: “it uses cheaper cuts and preparation is basic, but juices drip over the plate, and the peppercorn sauce is delicious!”

Punters are often drawn to this D&D London operation because of its association with TV show ‘First Dates’, for which it was famously the location. Originally it was conceived by the group as a classic City steakhouse kind of place, but has never really made waves in that department. Still, the odd report says it’s a “useful” option in the area (although, note, if you haven’t visited for a little while, it’s moved – it’s no longer overlooking St Paul’s from Paternoster Square and is now on Ludgate Hill).

“Still one of the steak stalwarts of London…”; “still our go-to place for a relaxed night out…”; “still the place for a discreet business meeting in the City…”. Few brands inspire as much long-term adulation as Huw Gott and Will Beckett’s steakhouse chain, which has ridden the zeitgeist since its founding in 2006; and which is now (with the help of Graphite Capital, who own most of it nowadays) to be found in NYC and Dublin, as well as Manchester, Edinburgh and Liverpool. A “terrific” cocktail in the bar, precedes “awesome steaks with fantastic side dishes, all in a cool setting”. At least, that’s long been the accepted wisdom anyway, although there’s a widespread feeling that quality “has dropped off a bit in recent years”. In this year’s annual diners’ poll, ratings improved in some respects and declined in others, with historical concerns over stratospheric prices supplanted by niggles that maybe the formula is just “starting to look a tad tired” and that service – though often “excellent” – can also sometimes seem increasingly “impersonal” (“you are just a number!”). The majority verdict for the time being, though? Still “always hits the spot”.

“Still one of the steak stalwarts of London…”; “still our go-to place for a relaxed night out…”; “still the place for a discreet business meeting in the City…”. Few brands inspire as much long-term adulation as Huw Gott and Will Beckett’s steakhouse chain, which has ridden the zeitgeist since its founding in 2006; and which is now (with the help of Graphite Capital, who own most of it nowadays) to be found in NYC and Dublin, as well as Manchester, Edinburgh and Liverpool. A “terrific” cocktail in the bar, precedes “awesome steaks with fantastic side dishes, all in a cool setting”. At least, that’s long been the accepted wisdom anyway, although there’s a widespread feeling that quality “has dropped off a bit in recent years”. In this year’s annual diners’ poll, ratings improved in some respects and declined in others, with historical concerns over stratospheric prices supplanted by niggles that maybe the formula is just “starting to look a tad tired” and that service – though often “excellent” – can also sometimes seem increasingly “impersonal” (“you are just a number!”). The majority verdict for the time being, though? Still “always hits the spot”.

“One of the best bangs for your buck in town” – this “well-priced” steak chain has a “sensible formula” and has “managed to keep standards up despite constant expansion” (its latest, 11th London site, opened in March 2023 in Kensington). “Surroundings are basic” and “their menu is very simplistic: you choose a cut of meat, sauce and sides – the cuts are cooked to perfection”, “chips are hot, the service is punctual” and “free ice cream at the end ensures happy faces when people leave”.

“A go-to place for top USDA steaks” – this unusual space, hewn out of the old circle of the former Hippodrome Theatre, is worth a trip, with food that’s much better than you might expect. It’s great value too (perhaps as a loss leader to get you into the casino?), making it ideal as a pre-theatre option; and on Monday you can BYO wine. NB. Under 25s must have ID.

This wood-panelled French brasserie with an “excellent fixed-price menu” of Gallic classics is particularly “useful in the location” – close to the Imperial War Museum in Kennington – and provides its own entertainment in the form of its upstairs jazz club.

“You book for the view, which is obviously incredible” at this 32nd-floor venue, run by Rainer Becker (of Zuma and many other top London restaurants). Like most places with a stunning outlook and “special occasion” suitability, it often takes flak for its sky-high pricing to match. This was absent in (admittedly thin) feedback this year, though, and the luxurious outputs from its open kitchen (with Josper oven, charcoal grill and rotisserie) were well-rated. (For cocktails or afternoon tea, head to Oblix East).

“Steak, as many hot chips as you can handle, good claret... and that’s about it really” – sums up the appeal of this “traditional” St James’s steakhouse that occupies the site where Wall’s became famous for their sausages. “Does exactly what it says on the tin”, although it’s seen as “rather overpriced” – “you’re paying for the name and the location”.

Fans do still hail the “fabulous meat” at Roberto Costa’s quirky Italian steakhouse group, but it has lost some of its red-blooded allure in recent years. “The restaurants look appealing and the menu looks promising”, but lower ratings bolster those who feel “the quality has dropped with expansion”, as it has grown to six venues across London (and a sister concept, Fish Game, opened in Canary Wharf in mid-2023); and at its worst, it can deliver “distinctly average steaks” at “steep prices”.

“One of the best bangs for your buck in town” – this “well-priced” steak chain has a “sensible formula” and has “managed to keep standards up despite constant expansion” (its latest, 11th London site, opened in March 2023 in Kensington). “Surroundings are basic” and “their menu is very simplistic: you choose a cut of meat, sauce and sides – the cuts are cooked to perfection”, “chips are hot, the service is punctual” and “free ice cream at the end ensures happy faces when people leave”.