London, Indian Restaurant Guide

“A marvel in a suburban desert” – this Forest Hill “jewel” takes “South London Indian cuisine to a new level and puts it equal with the best in the West End and City”. “The cooking is refined and inventive, beautifully spiced and seasoned, and looks as good as it tastes, while service is amiable rather than expert and the decor rather smart”. “I’ve been going there for over 20 years and it remains relevant and delicious with a constantly evolving menu and drinks list”. “If you live anywhere remotely within striking distance, you have to try it out!”

Very early feedback is adulatory for the massive menu of flavour-packed Indian BBQ dishes served at this JKS Restaurants (Gymkhana, Hoppers) newcomer (opened in June 2018), which occupies the largest restaurant space in the City’s Bloomberg Arcade. A sizeable operation inspired by traditional Indian Army mess halls (well, that’s what the press release said) it comprises multiple spaces including several bars (The Tap Room, Blighters) and private rooms (the biggest, The Pot Luck, has its own entrance).

“No wonder people queue out the door!” – “it feels like you are actually in Mumbai, even the smells wafting round the room”, at these “terrific” and “incredibly busy” outlets, whose “distinctive” interiors generate a “vibrant atmosphere” that’s reasonably faithful to the buzz in India’s Irani cafés. “The bar areas with good cocktails help make the long and boring wait bearable” and, once seated, servers “are full of fun and energy” (admittedly probably with one eye on “efficiently maximising table turnover”). For most customers, any hassle is “worth it for the absolutely yum-tastic Indian street food” – special shout outs go to the “the reinvention of the bacon butty (naan with crispy cured Ginger Pig bacon) which is the perfect breakfast”; and “the black daal and Ruby Murray, which are standout dishes”. But declining ratings do support the doubters who feel that “quality has declined following the brand’s extraordinary rise in popularity”, or that “while it’s good enough, the chain definitely doesn’t excite like it once did”. Even most critics would acknowledge that “the glow hasn’t worn off Dishoom yet”, however, and if you haven’t been already, you should go: it can still provide “a real revelation”.

“No wonder people queue out the door!” – “it feels like you are actually in Mumbai, even the smells wafting round the room”, at these “terrific” and “incredibly busy” outlets, whose “distinctive” interiors generate a “vibrant atmosphere” that’s reasonably faithful to the buzz in India’s Irani cafés. “The bar areas with good cocktails help make the long and boring wait bearable” and, once seated, servers “are full of fun and energy” (admittedly probably with one eye on “efficiently maximising table turnover”). For most customers, any hassle is “worth it for the absolutely yum-tastic Indian street food” – special shout outs go to the “the reinvention of the bacon butty (naan with crispy cured Ginger Pig bacon) which is the perfect breakfast”; and “the black daal and Ruby Murray, which are standout dishes”. But declining ratings do support the doubters who feel that “quality has declined following the brand’s extraordinary rise in popularity”, or that “while it’s good enough, the chain definitely doesn’t excite like it once did”. Even most critics would acknowledge that “the glow hasn’t worn off Dishoom yet”, however, and if you haven’t been already, you should go: it can still provide “a real revelation”.