London, Indian Restaurant Guide

“Cracking Indian fine dining with-a-twist” is to be had at this “congenial” and moodily “cavernous” Belgravia fusion-venture (under the same ownership as Chutney Mary and Veeraswamy). The tapas-style dishes, prepared in an open kitchen over the grill, deliver “vibrant” and “fabulous flavours”, and rank amongst London’s very best. Overall, it’s “a bit expensive”, but a “super, super, super-lovely experience”.

In the “desert” of Vauxhall’s riverside developments, this year-old offshoot of one of India’s best-known luxury restaurant groups occupies the smartly furnished ground floor of one of the new blocks, and specialises in Rajasthani cuisine. Feedback is still relatively limited, but such as there is says it’s been an “excellent arrival”.

Despite a vintage stretching back to 1926, London’s oldest Indian (part of the same group as Chutney Mary) doesn’t merely trade on its guidebook potential, with “subtle” and “original” cuisine, “dedicated” service, and a first-floor setting, whose agreeable looks are thoroughly modern. It seems to have become “a wee bit pricey” of late, though, “but it is in the heart of the West End, so perhaps not excessively so”.

“Still a classic” – this “elegant” destination in “Westminster’s lovely former library” has long been one of London’s most pre-eminent posh Indians; and its “interesting and idiosyncratic” cuisine has made it “something of an institution” (including amongst the politico classes – “being within division bell distance of Parliament, there’s a fair chance of spotting a well-known face or two”). Its enjoyment was “tempered by episodes of wobbly service over the last year”, however, and those who found the staff “over-stretched” were more likely to judge it “too expensive”.

Mixed reports this year on this swish first-floor Indian, in the heart of Mayfair, which severed ties in August 2018 with its original founder. Fans say it’s “still excellent, despite Atul Kochhar’s departure”, serving “very nicely balanced, spiced and well-prepared” Indian cuisine that offers “a real twist compared to what’s usually found in the UK”. Its ratings have waned, though, with gripes re-emerging about its “windowless”, slightly “dull” interior, but more concerningly about cooking that “may not justify the price tag”: “just go to Dishoom, get better food, have more fun and save your cash!”

Rohit Ghai has done it again at his late-2018 newcomer: the latest occupant of the “cosy” and “romantic” (if “on-the-quiet-side”) Chelsea townhouse, which for many years was another premier Indian (Rasoi Vineet Bhatia, RIP). Practically all reports are a hymn of praise to his “faultless cooking”, which has immediately propelled it into London’s very top tier for nouvelle Indian cuisine.