Durham, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

Chef Ruari MacKay (former head chef of the city’s now defunct Bistro 21) – with collaborators Gemma Robinson and Craig Lappin-Smith – raised £100,000 from crowd-funding to launch this simply decorated newcomer, which launched in late 2022, in a courtyard just over the river from the ancient city centre. The only option is a six-course tasting menu: feedback is still limited but says that “overall for the price it’s excellent, and served by friendly staff”.

Jake & Laura Siddle – long-term senior staff at Newcastle’s House of Tides – quit their jobs to launch their own ambitious restaurant in the centre of Durham, with the blessing of their mentor, House of Tides founder Kenny Atkinson. Heaven knows, it’s a town that could use a venue of some ambition. It opened in April 2023 (late in the day to inspire feedback in our annual diners’ poll) and offers a 10-course menu for £98 (lunch is shorter and simpler for £60). Faru means journey in Old English.