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Gordon Ramsay’s first pub operation, The Narrow, is to open in Limehouse on Monday 26 March. The food will focus on British classics (by a chef drawn from the brigade at Claridge’s).

The $64,000 question here is, to put it crudely, whether Ramsay can do cheap. He has no track record at all at the inexpensive end of the market. And even his efforts to do midprice – such as at the Boxwood Café SW1 – have hardly been crowned with great consumer acclaim. Particularly in the light of the lacklustre reception to his recent NYC opening, The Narrow is Ramsay’s opportunity to show that those who fear he’s now more interested in being a celebrity than being a chef/restaurateur have got it wrong.

The Narrow is at 44 Narrow Street E14 (tel 7592 7950).

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