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Time & Space, The Royal Institution

Fay Maschler, Evening Standard (Rating: 2/5 stars)

The doyenne of critics is not impressed by the this “digby trout (lower case is their house style)” restaurant at the Royal Institution, from “a division of the European contract catering giant Elior”. As with Jay Rayner’s review at the weekend, “the phrase black hole jumps irresistibly to mind”.

“Struggling inside this overworked, self-conscious menu is a good meal trying to get out”, she concludes, so perhaps her most practical observation is that the premises benefit not just from a restaurant, but also from a “beguiling bar open throughout the day and evening”.

Campania Gastronomia

David Sexton, Evening Standard (Rating: 2/5 stars)

The critic visits a Columbia Road newcomer that’s half deli, half restaurant. “Perhaps it needs to make up its mind if it is mainly a restaurant or a shop”, he surmises. “On the other hand, it is, unmistakably, the real thing. And that’s charming.”

Osteria Dell'Angolo

Andy Lynes, Metro (Rating: 3/5 stars)

“Owner Claudio Pulze has more than 30 years’ experience of opening restaurants in London so it’s no surprise that Osteria Dell'Angolo gets lots of important little things right”, says Metro’s (regular) stand-in critic. “Front of house staff beam; olives and breadsticks wrapped in Parma ham served with our aperitifs are delicious; there’s a sommelier who doesn't blink an eyelid when asked for some suggestions under £30 on the predominantly Italian list”, and “[i]f pasta is the jewel in the crown of an Italian restaurant then Osteria Dell'Angolo is sporting some serious rocks in its figurative headgear”.

“But stupendous pasta doesn't make for a great Italian on its own and elsewhere things come unstuck”. The menu is “poorly translated” and “[l]ong waits between ordering and food arriving make the evening drag”. And the other menu items don’t especially impress. “The quality of its pasta might give Osterial Dell'Angolo a claim as the next king of London Italian restaurants but it'll need to sort out the rest of its menu if it's ever to ascend to the throne.”

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