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Zoe Williams, The Telegraph (Rating: 9/10)

The upward trajectory of reviews on this new(ish) Indian restaurant continues. “[T]he first room feels a bit like a corridor, and the second room feels like the back room”, but its set menu does offer, says the critic, a “varied, preordained selection of deliciousness”. “Easy and exciting, but sophisticated and eye-opening – this is what eating out should be like.”


Giles Coren, The Times (Rating: 7.33/10)

“Funny name, unexpected location, slightly unsettling space, and very possibly the most interesting food in England. Go on, choose your priorities” – a neat critical self-summary of this offbeat sushi-specialist, in Marylebone.

Time & Space, The Royal Institution

Jay Rayner, The Observer

Mayfair’s Royal Institution “has been a hotbed of scientific debate and promotion for more than two centuries”, says Mr Rayner. “The place is rammed with people thinking clever thoughts. Unfortunately it seems none of them has anything to do with what might make for a pleasant lunch. Not long ago they reopened the building after a major refurbishment.” This included the restaurant being reviewed today: “[i]f there is any justice in this world a small black hole, a rip in the very fabric of the time-space continuum, will soon open under Albemarle Street and put us all out of its misery”.

JSW, Petersfield

John Walsh, The Independent (Rating: Food 2/5 stars, Ambience 2/5 stars, Service 3/5)

The critic visits a Michelin-starred restaurant of some note, and finds it – surprise, surprise – “all hushed and dull and depressing and underlit, like a posh chapel of rest”. The staff may be “charming”, but this establishment is indeed made to sound an awful parody of the sort of place the inspectors from the tyre company so like: “a hushed, cream-walled shrine to simplicity that’s, at present, fatally mired in blandness, ‘classiness’, anonymity and poor combinations of texture. … If [le patron] stopped being so determinedly a purveyor of inoffensive good taste, we’d all be a lot better off.”

The Crown, Amersham

Matthew Norman, The Guardian (Rating: 8.25/10)

This “handsome dining room” may be underlit, but it is “charming and relaxing, and has real character”. “The menu is perfectly calibrated both for the setting and for the financial mood’, too, “being simple, gutsy, reliant on seasonal local produce and admirably priced (the set lunch is £12.90 for three courses)”. The critic leaves “delighted by an honest, engaging restaurant in a hotel that pulls off the cute trick, for all the naffness of the concept, of being dead cool and pleasingly warm at the same time”.

Red Lion, East Chisenbury

Jasper Gerard, The Sunday Telegraph (Rating: 3/5)

Between them, the couple owning this rural inn “have worked in several serious restaurants including London's Chez Bruce, New York's Per Se and San Sebastian's three-star Martin Berasategui”, Their establishment is “a restaurant dolled up as a pub at a fancy dress party”. Although the food has its highlights, Mr Gerard finds the performance unimpressive overall.

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