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AA Gill, The Sunday Times (Rating: 4/5 stars)

The critic visits a new Marylebone Indian where the food is “probably as fine as any in London”. It’s “better than the room”, though, and it comes in “annoying stutters and starts”. Prices are such as to make you “think twice”.

The River Café

John Walsh, The Independent (Rating: Food 5/5 stars, Ambience 5/5 stars, Service 5/5 stars)

Another rave review of the Hammersmith legend which – the professional critics would have us believe – is better than ever since its post-fire relaunch. To start with, it “looks gorgeous”, with the menu (“more more elaborate than I remember”) offering “flavour-at-all-costs cooking”. Lunch was “epic… Homeric… instensely satisfying and incredibly filling”.

Hotel TerraVina, Woodlands, Hampshire

Terry Durack, The Independent on Sunday (Rating: 14/20)

Gerard Basset – patron of this new country-house restaurant in the New Forest, holder of one of our Rémy Martin awards – is “probably England's most-qualified wine professional”, says the critic, “being the only person in the world to hold simultaneously the Master Sommelier Exam, Master of Wine Exam and a Wine MBA (from Bordeaux University)”.

The food “takes its inspiration from the laid-back vibe of Californian wine country”, so it’s perhaps a shame that the atmosphere is judged still “very English country house, with hushed whisperings in corners, polite nodding between tables, and lighting on the dim side of moody”. TerraVina is undoubtedly “a class act”, he concludes, “and any wine lover would do well to spend the night here”. A greater “sense of relaxation”, however, is still required.

The Pass Restaurant, South Lodge Hotel, nr Horsham

Jasper Gerard, The Telegraph (Rating: 7/10)

The Pass, the critic tells us, “is a just-opened modernist joint in the new, sparkly kitchen of the hitherto pleasantly somnolent South Lodge Hotel. On his lunchtime visit, however, his party comprises “the only diners, leaving us dangerously out-numbered by 10 kitchen hands”. “In contrast, the hotel's other restaurant, The Camellia, with its ancient panelling, ancient oils and ancient customers is positively teaming with happy chompers… [M]aybe Horsham prefers its tuck novelty-free.” “Like most novelties”, he concludes, the Pass is a destination “worth experiencing once”.

The Ellington

Jay Rayner, The Observer

The Ellington, we discover, “is the dining room of a new hotel run by a new company which proclaims Norman Lamont as a board member”, with some involvement of notables from Le Gavroche too. The food may be “tribute to old-fashioned, back-breaking mis en place: everything had been prepped within an inch of its life. Vegetables diced and julienned”, but the Ellington turns out to be “a gem”, let down only by a poor and expensive wine selection. All in all, however, “in these straightened times, when we need to save up for our pleasures, this new restaurant does at least offer something soothing and reliable at a price that is attainable for some, if not all”.

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