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John Walsh, The Independent

The new addition to the Gordon Ramsay empire is “a discreet, muted-looking place in the heart of Mayfair”. Though Angela Hartnett’s food was “well-flavoured”, it left the critic “disappointed”. His guest describes it as “strangely unadventurous for such a ballsy lady”. And “[i]f the food wasn't quite four-star, the service tried a little too hard”

Jasper Gerard, The Sunday Telegraph (Rating: 8.5/10 stars)

The Telegraph’s man is swept away by Gordon Ramsay’s/Angela Hartnett’s new kitchen, which he thinks is “fabulous ”.


Rachel Johnson, The Sunday Times (Rating: 3/5 stars)

AA Gill’s stand-in visits an Exmoor brasserie she finds “unpretentious, wild, woolly and woody”.


Terry Durack, The Independent on Sunday (Rating: 15/20)

This “frenetic” Pakistani-Punjabi restaurant “is more rough-and-tumble than refined”, concludes the critic, “but it has something magical that makes it 10 times better than committing hurry-curry in Brick Lane”.

Le Gavroche

Simon Hopkinson, The Guardian (Rating: 9.75/10)

The chef who kicked off Bibendum, acting as stand-in critic, visits this Mayfair legend to commemmorate the retirement of maître d’ Silvano Giraldin, “after 33 years of loyal service… as probably the finest restaurant manager this country has known”. The famously good-value set lunch does not let him down.

Gourmet San

Jay Rayner, The Observer

The critic is one of only two non-Chinese diners at this East End Szechuanese restaurant, which he procaims a “true gem”.

5 Cornwall restaurants

Giles Coren, The Times

The critic recalls a trip to Cornwall, where he visited: The Lugger Hotel, Portloe, Truro; Restaurant Nathan Outlaw, Fowey; The Seafood Restaurant, Padstow; Stein’s Patisseriem Padstow; and Bangors Organic Poundstock.

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