Restaurant Nathan Outlaw

"A completely delightful, satisfying focus for a weekend away. I was struck by the powerful differentiation of textures and flavours across different types of fish and seafood. I was also especially impressed by how much Nathan and his team seemed to have thought about the overall experience of spending an evening in a fine dining restaurant: about how you have ups and downs of energy, get tired and tipsy etc. I often feel chefs haven't actually sat through their meal with a bunch of friends and felt that emotional reality, resulting in e.g. overcomplex and subtle deserts and the general tailing off of interest as meals progress."

"A new approach was in evidence, with the previously normal tasting menu being replaced by a shorter four-course offering of a single main course and three other courses with a choice of two dishes. The portions were larger, of course, but opinions were divided on whether this was an improvement on the old format, and, personally, I would have been very happy to have tackled smaller plates of all seven dishes on offer, but my wife disagreed. We were of one mind, though, on the supreme quality of the cooking, which was immediately evident with the snacks - smoked haddock fritter balls with herby mayo, squid and salami salad, and mackerel and herring with a delightfully vinegary mayo, all accompanied by a surprising Albariño sparkling wine. We selected different first courses, both showing, if evidence were needed, that Nathan Outlaw remains the curemaster, and both absolutely delicious - the mellow gurnard with celeriac, apple and chilli, the exemplary monkfish with a taste of mint at the front and tarragon and peas completing the picture. We went our separate ways again with the second course, cod with a richness of mushroom and a superb red wine tartare dressing which lent a certain freshness, and delicate lemon sole with an oyster chowder, fennel and carrot for texture. The Porthilly oyster in the chowder was simply the best ever. Our main course was beautiful John Dory with fennel, potato gratin and potato fritters, and we were delighted to see that it came with Nathan’s Porthilly Sauce which, of course, put the pastiches that have cropped up in one or two other restaurants of late completely in the shade. Chocoholics that we are, it was inevitable that we would both go for the malted orange profiterole and chocolate sauce, and, with the rich Granada choco sauce matching the crunchy, almost fruity, pastry, our evening of culinary satisfaction drew to a close. As always, the service was top-notch and the wines absolutely superb. One day, we hope, we will not have to say what we’ve repeating for years - Michelin get real!"