December 2019: Alyn Williams has left The Westbury and has no further involvement with the hotel or this restaurant; chef Charles Tayler continues to be head chef.
Harden's survey result
“Outstanding cooking, with first-class service” consistently hits the bullseye at this relatively unsung venue, tucked away at the back of a luxury Mayfair hotel. There’s a “thoughtful” approach to the meal, with “chefs coming out to tell you about dishes” – while some diners are “invited into the kitchen to meet Alyn”. It’s a “very comfortable” set-up and “the space between tables is incredible by modern restaurant standards, which creates the intimacy that a romantic meal requires”. And, especially at lunch, the elegant room’s lack of windows and natural light adds to the cocooning nature of the experience.
“What a find!”. Alyn Williams’s “outstanding” dining room hidden away at the back of a luxury Mayfair hotel is “one of the very best restaurants in London” (“and bizarrely underrated”). “It’s hard to fault the cooking and staff” – accolades reflected in this year’s high ratings – “and there’s even plenty of space between the tables”.
“Top notch cuisine and super service” still secure many plaudits for Alyn Williams’s (windowless) Mayfair dining room, in the bowels of a hotel off Bond Street, but it put in a more uneven performance this year. “As quite often happens with hotel restaurants, its atmosphere can lack” however, and it took significant flak from critics this year for a number of “disappointing” and “unjustifiably expensive” meals.
“Consistently punching above its weight” – Alyn Williams’s “inventive” cuisine and “the most charming service” are often “in excess of expectations” at this windowless hotel dining room, off Bond Street, whose “widely spaced tables are ideal for a discreet business meal”.
Alyn Williams, Westbury Hotel Restaurant Diner Reviews
"Not as good as usual"
|Wine per bottle||£39.00|
Alyn Williams at The Westbury W1
Hidden-away inside Bond Street's only hotel, a grand new dining room for an ex-Marcus Wareing chef of whom we suspect we're going to be hearing a lot more; our lunchtime visit offered invariably high quality, and extraordinary overall value.
Half way up our grandest shopping thoroughfare, this hotel dining room certainly has a handy location. Not that you'd know it was there from external appearances. Perhaps why, when we visited for a midweek lunch in the second week of opening, it was at best sparsely occupied.
Undistracted by punters, we had plenty of opportunity to consider the décor. Well, let's just say that, though the place reeks of money, it's been spent with more discretion than at the same hotel's tart's-boudoir-like number two restaurant, opened a few months ago, which trades under the name of The Gallery (of what, Bad Taste?). In short, this is a suitable setting for an emerging name who was until recently head chef at Marcus Wareing's equally plush Knightsbridge joint.
The set lunch menu was presented almost apologetically, but surely few are the people who - especially in the early days of a restaurant - are particularly likely to want to embark on the full works? We certainly didn't. Between us, however, we were able to sample the entire carte du jour.
Fish dishes seem a particular highlight. A starter of escabeche of gurnard, for example, was notable for the perfection of its timing, as was piece of hake presented on seaweed butter with grilled whelks and truffle. Presentation throughout was of a very high standard. And even the wine prices were not so high as to spoil the experience. Wareing, with his Lancastrian roots, famously has a gift for puddings, and that strength is echoed here in desserts both British (jelly, charmingly presented) and more classically French in style.
As it turned out, it would have been difficult to imagine an occasion when most people would want to lunch much more splendidly than we did for our £24 a head! The set lunch here is an incredible bargain.
Now all we need do is find an excuse to go back for dinner.
37 Conduit St, London, W1S 2YF
|Number of Diners:|
|Tuesday||12 pm‑2:30 pm, 6 pm‑10:30 pm|
|Wednesday||12 pm‑2:30 pm, 6 pm‑10:30 pm|
|Thursday||12 pm‑2:30 pm, 6 pm‑10:30 pm|
|Friday||12 pm‑2:30 pm, 6 pm‑10:30 pm|
|Saturday||12 pm‑2:30 pm, 6 pm‑10:30 pm|