28-50

Hot Newcomer

Summary

“Useful pre-Wigmore Hall” – this Marylebone original is now the sole surviving branch of what for a few years become a chain, but which retrenched last year. The space – with large windows and dominated by the bar – “doesn’t encourage you to linger”, but the “simple dishes are well executed, at a good price”. Really, though, it’s “all about the wines by the glass” (15 reds and 15 whites), plus a ‘Collector’s List’ of rare vintages by the bottle.