Harden's survey result
“Dazzling reinvention of African classic dishes”, featuring “really unique combinations and flavours”, has made this much-discussed two-year-old – from Chinese-Canadian chef Jeremy Chan and Nigerian co-founder Iré Hassan-Odukele – one of the most original of recent London openings. It’s in the St James’s Market development near Piccadilly Circus: an area, in contrast, “stuffed with conformity to the norm”, where “the vibes are a bit sterile”. In the evening, the main option is a seven-course tasting menu for £75, but an extended version for £100 is also available.
“Posh and West African food? I didn’t think they went together” – but the “strikingly original fusion” of modern techniques and Nigerian culinary traditional has produced some of “the most interesting cooking in London” at this year-old venue in a new development behind Piccadilly Circus. “An amalgam of an African chef (Iré Hassan-Odukale) and a Heston Blumenthal chef (Canadian-Chinese Jeremy Chan, ex-Fat Duck)”, it is housed in a “Scandi-chic interior”. “One of the most memorable meals of the year”, “it all felt new to me!”
West African-influenced cuisine – a modern take on traditional Nigerian, Ghanaian and Senegalese flavours, without particular reference to indigenous dishes – comes to St James’s, thanks to (Canadian-Chinese) chef Jeremy Chan (who has previously worked at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, Noma and Hibiscus) and native Nigerian, Iré Hassan-Odukale (born in Ikoyi, Lagos’s most affluent suburb). The venture – part of the the extensive redevelopment of St James’s Market, and by far London’s swankiest African-inspired venture to-date – follows a successful pop-up career (including at Carousel).
|Wine per bottle||£32.00|
1 St James's Market, London, SW1Y 4AH
|Monday||12 pm‑3 pm, 5:30 pm‑10:30 pm|
|Tuesday||12 pm‑3 pm, 5:30 pm‑10:30 pm|
|Wednesday||12 pm‑3 pm, 5:30 pm‑10:30 pm|
|Thursday||12 pm‑3 pm, 5:30 pm‑10:30 pm|
|Friday||12 pm‑3 pm, 5:30 pm‑10:30 pm|
|Saturday||12 pm‑3 pm, 5:30 pm‑10:30 pm|