The Times
Noting that “the bistro is back in fashion”, Charlotte Ivers headed for lunch to Claude Bosi’s latest, which she said “delivers on the fantasy” of “candles on the table, red banquettes, walls lined with wine bottles, a grumpy old gent sitting outside chain-smoking”.
Admitting to having over-indulged in vodka the night before, Charlotte was on the Diet Cokes – “pas chic at all” – and only tried a “majestic rotisserie chicken for two” with roast potatoes, green salad and green beans on the side.
The reader might consider this an inadequate sample for a review, but Charlotte was happy to rate the cooking as “what every meal should be: pure and simple. The French got it right centuries ago and we’ve been fiddling in the margins ever since.”
Charlotte Ivers - 2025-01-19