Harden's survey result
“Sheer class and quality” shine through the “slightly old-fashioned setting” of the dining room at the Duke of Westminster’s grand city-centre hotel, where exec chef Simon Radley celebrates 21 years at the helm in 2019. His “inventive tasting menus (including a vegetarian version) are served theatrically” and still impress all diners, even if “the price is high for this show”. Baking has always been a feature here: “the pièce de resistance is not the courses themselves, but the amazing bread in between!” Notable cellar here too, which offers a heavyweight selection numbering 700 bins.
The “quiet and unhurried” (“slightly stuffy”) dining room in the bowels of the Duke of Westminster’s grand city-centre hotel is “not the cheapest”, but “for an occasion that you want to cherish”, Simon Radley’s “superior” cuisine (introduced by a particularly “delicious” bread trolley) has long been of note, and is matched with “excellent accompanying wines” from the huge cellar.
By the Eastgate Clock, the Duke of Westminster’s gracious property is unusually grand for a small-town hotel, and its “rather old-fashioned” dining room (a windowless space in the heart of the building) has long held a major culinary reputation under Simon Radley. It drew a few critical reviews this year, and even some supporters say the food is “aiming slightly higher than it delivers”. Overall, however, it scores high ratings for cuisine that “provides a kaleidoscope of taste and texture over a series of theatrical courses”, and for its very heavyweight wine list (plus the “best bread board ever encountered”).
Few small provincial cities have grander hotels than this “elegant” property (next to the town’s landmark Eastgate Clock), which is owned by The Duke of Westminster (whose family seat, Eaton Hall, is a short drive out of town). Its “formal” and rather “old-fashioned” dining room feels as “smart” as its windowless position in the bowels of the building will allow, and is a showcase for Simon Radley’s cuisine, which is “the epitome of classic style mixed with modern and creative ideas” and consistently delivers “first class” results. Also vying for attention is the “massive” wine list, which “bamboozles with the sheer choice on offer”.
56-58 Eastgate Street, Chester, CH1 1LT
|Number of Diners:|
|Tuesday||6:30 pm-9 pm|
|Wednesday||6:30 pm-9 pm|
|Thursday||6:30 pm-9 pm|
|Friday||6:30 pm-9 pm|
|Saturday||6:30 pm-9 pm|