No sector amongst London’s impoverished selection of specialist food shops has had greater claim to Cinderella status than the pâtisserie. Part of the reason seems to be that quality baking has not traditionally been seen as an occupation fit for an Englishmen. Famous pâtisseries – in order of establishment, Bertaux, Sagne, Valerie and Blanc – are few, and they were all established long ago by continentals.
In recent years, though, there have been some signs that Cinders might finally get to the ball. Her beau, however, is still set to be a handsome Frenchman. It’s names like Paul (France’s biggest upmarket bakers, now on many high streets here), Poilane (Paris’s most famous bread shop, now in Belgravia), Ladurée (the same city’s most famous macaroon shop, now at Harrods) and Macaron (an exceptional new French bakery, in Clapham) which are primarily responsible for re-energising our local scene.
Until recently, Pâtisserie Valerie – and then really only in the Brompton Road – and Paul were amongst the handful of operators who had really cottoned on to how good baking can provide the basis for an elegant but still reasonably economical, light, eat-in meal.
Maison Blanc’s new grand café/takeaway formula – now on show in the City, and also a few doors along from Fortnum’s – aims to fill the ‘quick but elegant’ snack niche with a degree of panache not attempted in London in recent times. And pretty successfully too, on the basis of our visits. One lunch consisted of tasty bread, good soup (generously served in a proper bowl), a pretty fair quiche, followed by a respectable chocolate cake and a decent cup of coffee. Nothing startling, but all totally competent, and – considering the price – offering an overall experience with a very reasonable degree of comfort and style.
