A would-be-trendy Indian restaurant-cum-cocktail bar, on the Chelsea ‘Beach’; it offers good and sometimes innovative cuisine, but the atmosphere on our visit was rather flat.

The site which is now Mokssh – pretty much opposite the Chelsea and Westminster Hospital – used to be home to a very good tapas bar called Lomo. Quite a trendy destination for a time, it maintained a reputation for quality dishes for many years, and – though the design was nothing special – the place was consistently pretty busy.

In a different idiom – that of trendy Indian restaurant-cum-cocktail bar – Mokssh is in some ways similar to its predecessor. The interior may have been tarted up in loungey contemporary style, but – as under the former regime – the effect is not especially impressive, and the level of comfort not especially high. As in the old days, the food is consistently pretty good (and sometimes quite innovative).

Our bill, however, seemed to mount up rather more than we’d have hoped for in the old days, and service, though friendly, was perhaps rather slow.

On the rainy night we visited, however, the most obvious real change from the past was the absence of the crowd which almost always seemed to be present at the site in its former days. Perhaps we/they were just unlucky, but – in spite of the quality of the food – we left unconvinced that it would necessarily be particularly different when the weather was more clement.

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