A first for Stockwell, this simply revamped gastropub is the first offshoot of the fabled Anchor and Hope – in the same style, it offers a short and very simple menu, realised to a high standard.
For a modest-looking gastropub, this new Stockwell outfit has quickly commanded a lot of critical attention, a fact largely explained by the fact that it’s another venture from the Anchor & Hope people. (Number one London gastropub, according to our most recent survey.)
There’s a danger that the general visitor might therefore expect there to be rather more going on – both literally and figuratively – than was apparent on our sunny weekday lunchtime visit. The place was pretty much deserted, but presumably this is more a weekend/evening destination.
The menu is rather more extensive in the evening but, on our visit, two people were able to sample all – both – the proper main courses of the day. An onglet (cooked rare, unless otherwise requested) was impressive, and came with good chips. Another dish of Arbroath Smokies with cream and chives was indeed precisely as described, and none the worse for that. The star was a plate of buttered cabbage. Bread was old-fashioned English, in a good way. Coffee – filter only – was rather less impressive.
Service was pleasant and efficient. As we were were pretty much the only customers, though, we can only speculate as to what it might be like when the place has a normal level of custom. Given the quality of the cuisine – simple as it is – we’d imagine that that will be quite soon.
Photo – thanks Dos Hermanos