Vicino
REVIEW April 21, 2010
Overall Value
out of 5
Food 
Service 
Ambience 
£40
Vicino, 189 New King’s Rd, London, SW6 4SW

Unchanged from the days when it was called De Cecco, this long-running Italian is now even more appropriately named, serving up an above-average ‘local’ formula to the lucky inhabitants of Parson’s Green.

The change of name of the establishment long called De Cecco drew us back to this Parson’s Green Italian, which was established over two decades ago. It turns out that we’d been drawn on false pretences: there is no change of régime. It’s just that the Italian pasta company of the same name finally noted that their branding had, in their view, been appropriated. Needless to say, they didn’t take it as the compliment no doubt intended.

The restaurant management decided that the line of least resistance was therefore simply to change the name. If a place has enough of a local following to have lasted as long as De Cecco, it seems to us that the name probably doesn’t matter much anyway.

Anyway, our visit this wasn’t a ‘full inspection’ (whatever that means), just lunch with a mate. Your critic’s meal kicked off with a well-made bloody Mary, followed by a satisfying plate of risotto liberally garnished with lobster and king prawn, and a bite of light cheesecake. Companion had spaghetti al vongole which inspired much praise,as did the cheesecake. Bread and coffee were pretty good too. All in all, a meal that was ‘fit for purpose’, and more.

Lucky Parson’s Green. This is just the sort of establishment which anyone would be pleased to have ‘vicino’.

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