Plain and simple steak ‘n’ chips – arguably France’s top contribution to world gastronomy – is done very well indeed at this Marylebone newcomer. Don’t go expecting anything else, though- so far as main courses go, that’s all there is. There aren’t any starters, either, unless you include a small lettuce and walnut salad (compris). You can’t even order your steak any way you like. It comes one of four ways: bleu, rare, medium or well done. (If you like yours medium-rare, you’ll probably find medium fits the bill.)
With meat from Donald Russell (butcher By Appointment) and a covering of the house’s secret ‘special’ sauce there is, however, absolutely no cause for complaint. You might initially think the portion rather small, but – don’t worry – ‘seconds’ are being held back. The frites are excellent too, and come in unlimited quantities.
Desserts seem, relatively-speaking, a riot of choice. They were quite good on our visit – presumably, they’ll be even better when, as intended, they can be sourced from Ladurée, whose first London branch opens (at Harrods) later this year.
Overall, the aim has been to create a complete facsimile of the original (near the porte Maillot), and Parisian practices are continued here. On the upside, wine comes by the demi-litre – the perfect lunchtime measure (for two that is). On the downside, service is variable, and you can’t book – the word is already out, so get there early!
