Near Fulham Broadway, a spacious and comfortable bar cum dining room; it’s rather hidden-away, though, and we’re not quite sure its cuisine makes it positively worth seeking out.

The Fulham premises once known as The Farm have been through a number of incarnations in recent years. Constant throughout has been a comfortable and spacious contemporary interior (albeit in a style that a snobbish companion likened to that of a provincial nightclub).

This establishment is only 100 metres or so off the main drag, but it’s a large place, and has little passing traffic. The result? Well, on our Monday lunchtime visit we were the only customers. Another part of the problem may be that the food is fine, in the sense that it is quite OK, without in any way being a reason positively to seek the establishment out.

A slightly watery vegetable soup was diminished by the pretension of being served in a jug, and the venison sausages and mash from coming with an over-reduced gravy; a decent enough plate of ravioli and kale would have been more greatly enjoyed without the bonus hair. There were successes too, though. Decent bread was generously served, and both a terrine and a chocolate fondant hit the spot. And the bill – well under £50 for two, choosing from the lunch menu – was by no means unreasonable.

As the Harwood Arms, not so far away, has clearly demonstrated, though, you can make a real success of a pub-restaurant by offering a proposition which is compelling enough to make the place worth seeking out. My Dining Room, however, is a more a place to consider if you should be passing.

And, as we noted above, that’s sadly relatively unlikely.

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