Waddington Restaurant Guide

Chef-patron Michael Heathcote has established a solid following for this Ribble Valley establishment, where he celebrates a decade this year. The “top-value Sunday lunch” is a big attraction – along with “exceptional fish soup”.

2021 Review: This “lovely gastropub in the pretty village of Downham, under the shadow of Pendle Hill” is part of Jocelyn Neve’s Seafood Pub Company – the interior has been “completely renovated”, but retains a proper atmosphere with its “roaring fires”. Views on its performance diverged a little last year: most reports suggest the “excellent fish and seafood is definitely worth going for”, but a couple of mixed reports (“good but not as good as it was”; “trying hard but no organisation”) sound a warning note.

“Set in a tiny hamlet in Lancashire’s Ribble Valley”, Steve Smith’s “fine-dining destination disguised as a pub with rooms” is one of the top 50 most commented-on destinations outside London in our annual diners’ poll. “The food is superb, and the wine list well chosen” and it’s all served “in an easygoing atmosphere… you can even take the dog!” Even amongst fans, though, opinions divide sharply over the level of value it provides: what is “very fair” to some is – to others – becoming more borderline (“I know everything is more expensive now, but sadly this is now in the sphere of me not being able to justify the expense”).

“The pies are world-beating and the staff are the friendliest people ever!” at this ever more famous pub in the Forest of Bowland – nowadays one of the top 100 most commented-on destinations outside London in our annual diners’ poll, and fans still say “impossible to fault” thanks to its “brilliant and varied cuisine at great-value prices”. “Chef Stosie Madi’s star is burning bright, and rightly so, with daily- or twice-daily-changing menus using produce that’s as local and as seasonal as possible (which often means foraged by Madi on the days they’re not open)”. “The food continues to be exceptional, and the most reliable for miles, combining an unerring flair for simple deliciousness with a remarkable mastery of a whole range of techniques”. All this said, popularity is starting to weigh somewhat on feedback. “Prices are still not punishing, but they are much-increased, and the menu is now restricted to a three-course format, with appearances on the Hairy Bikers and the Top 50 Gastropubs keeping them full”. And disappointments – though still largely drowned out by fanboying feedback – are no longer completely unknown (“it’s just a pie when all’s said and done, but the cost!”)

2023 Review: “Simplicity” combines with “top quality” at Carlow-born Breda Murphy’s deli-restaurant, a popular destination in the Ribble Valley since 2006 for her Anglo-Irish home-style cooking. “At first it feels overly conservative, but every dish is perfectly cooked, often with a small and interesting twist such as thick-cut lime and soy-cured salmon.”

In a “lovely setting in an archetypically unspoilt Ribble Valley village, complete with stocks on the village green”, Susan Lord and Dutch husband Ko Labeij’s slick village inn is a “wonderful find” by all accounts; “the menu reads well: simple and manageable” pub classics (or more adventurous tasting menus on Fri & Sat nights), and it’s a proper boozer too – “now with its own microbrewery” tapping the local well water in its 4 Mice ales.